Nereid

The team says the idea took shape in İzmir, Kadıköy and Ayvalık before they opened in Kaş in 2012, wanting to bring the Aegean tavern table they missed to this coast. The mood is relaxed and the plates are meant for sharing. Turkish food guides describe the building as a restored old Greek house, with views over the harbour.

Start with cold meze: fava with red onion and dill, Girit ezme with four cheeses and basil, aubergine with avocado, and sea beans with garlic and tomato. The kitchen cures its own fish pastırma and also serves çiroz, lakerda and smoked mussels.

Among the hot seafood plates, the chef recommends lavinya, squid wrapped around melted cheese, octopus cooked for eight hours in an orange sauce, and a sea bass pastry. The day’s fish is sold by weight from the counter and grilled over oak charcoal. Drink rakı, Aegean wine or a cocktail, and finish with baked tahini halva.

Kaş Marina is on the west side of town, and its operator puts it about 1 km from the centre. Allow around 20 minutes on foot to the restaurant, or take a short taxi ride. From the main square, walk towards Küçük Çakıl beach, take the first street on the left at the top of the slope, and Nereid is the first place on the right.

Nereid is open every day from noon until 01:00. Acoustic live music, mostly Turkish and international songs from the 1990s onwards, starts at 20:00 on the nights listed on its website. Book ahead for summer evenings, music nights and sunset: requests go through WhatsApp, tables are held for 15 minutes, and groups of more than eight should call. Dogs on a lead are welcome.