Pasticceria Pansa

Andrea Pansa turned a storeroom on the main square into a pastry shop in 1830, and the family still runs it, now in its fifth generation. Inside, the 19th-century fittings and gilded mirrors survive; it is on the register of Italy’s historic shops and cafés.

Its lemons come from the family’s own estate on the coast, where the local Sfusato Amalfitano variety is grown.

Over the years its guests have included Henrik Ibsen, Richard Wagner and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, and it is still recognised among Italy’s best pastry shops by the Gambero Rosso guide. Beyond the lemon pastries, there is babà, the shell-shaped sfogliatella Santa Rosa, house chocolate and gelato.

The delizia al limone, a light sponge filled and covered with lemon cream, is the one to try. The pasticciotto amalfitano and the scorzette, candied citrus peel, some dipped in chocolate, make good gifts to take back to the yacht. In summer the lemon granita and sorbet are a welcome break from the heat.

Amalfi’s harbour has pontoons for yachts up to about 35 metres, and larger yachts anchor off and send guests in by tender. The cathedral square is about 500 metres from the harbour, a flat walk through the town gate.

Pansa is open every day from early morning until late at night. No booking is needed; the terrace on the square fills up in the middle of the day.