Varoulko Seaside

Lazarou, the son of a ship’s cook, started out in ship galleys as a teenager and learned most of his trade on cruise ships. In October 1987 he opened Varoulko in Piraeus, which he describes as a boat on land. In 2002 it received a Michelin star, which the restaurant says was the first given to a restaurant serving Greek food in Greece. Today it sits on the waterfront at Mikrolimano, looking across the marina towards the Athens Riviera, and Lazarou runs the kitchen with head chef Yiannis Yfantidis.

The menu is almost all fish and seafood. Recent dishes include a fish soup with stonefish broth and white grouper, oysters with apricot sorbet, sea bass carpaccio with kumquat, red shrimp ceviche with Oscietra caviar, grilled squid with its ink, and orzo with shrimp and Limnos sweet wine. There is grilled fish too, and a tasting menu that shows the range of the kitchen. You can keep it simple with lunch or make an evening of it.

Varoulko is at Koumoundourou Coast 54, on the Mikrolimano waterfront. If your yacht is berthed in Mikrolimano, it is a walk along the quay. From other marinas in Piraeus or along the Athens Riviera, a taxi is the simplest way over.

The restaurant opens every day from 1pm to midnight, so it works for a long lunch as well as dinner. Book through the website or by phone, and ask for a table facing the marina. Pets are not allowed, but guide dogs are welcome if you call ahead.