Sunset by Paraskevas

Paraskevas Birigkos came to Santorini in 1979, met his wife Margarita and spent his days fishing. In the early 1980s the couple opened the first fish taverna in Ammoudi, which then had a single kafeneio and no road; a donkey carried the supplies down. Ammoudi had been Oia’s main port in the 19th and 20th centuries, shipping the island’s Vinsanto wine. Margarita still cooks every day, and fishing caiques still bring the catch in each morning.

The taverna is best known for its lobster spaghetti, made to a family recipe it keeps secret, and it says the New York Times and the Travel Channel have recommended it. Paraskevas and Margarita choose the ingredients themselves and start cooking early, so lunch is ready in good time. Start with Santorini fava, tomato fritters, aubergine stuffed with feta and courgette balls, then order the fisherman’s salad and whatever fresh fish has come in that day. The wine list leans on local Santorini labels.

If your yacht is anchored near Oia, take the tender into Ammoudi’s little harbour; the taverna is right at its edge. From Oia village it is 214 steps down from the castle, and a road also runs down to the bay. Fira is about 8 km away by taxi.

Book ahead online or by phone, especially if you want a table at sunset. Before dinner, swimmers can dive into the clear water at Agios Nikolaos nearby. The taverna also hosts weddings and private events.