Haxhi

The family runs the room themselves, and the atmosphere is intimate and informal, so the terrace with its view of the sea is where most people want to sit. It is busy through the summer with visitors and residents alike, which in Sarandë is a good sign: this is a real town that eats out all year, not only in August.

Portions are fair and the cooking is careful, with good ingredients and fresh fish at its centre.

The menu covers fresh fish and local seafood, traditional Albanian cooking and some Greek dishes, with vegetarian choices too. Ask about the fish of the day, and look for the slow-cooked Albanian dishes, such as tavë kosi, lamb baked with yoghurt, or qofte, grilled meatballs. Butrint mussels, farmed in the lagoon just south of town, turn up on menus across Sarandë.

Yachts on the southern Riviera berth in Sarandë harbour or anchor off the town. Haxhi is about 350 metres east of the harbour front, close to the seafront, so it is an easy walk from the quay or the tender landing. No taxi is needed.

Haxhi takes no reservations, so arrive early, around 18:30, or after 21:00, when the evening promenade has passed. Bring cash, as cards are not accepted, and expect a glass of raki at the end of the meal, as is the custom across the town.