Gjurma

The restaurant stands by the sea, and its approach rests on buying fish from local fishermen each morning rather than using frozen stock. Mehmeti trained in kitchens across Europe, according to the restaurant, and his cooking keeps sauces light so that the fish leads.

Produce comes from around southern Albania too: basil, artisan cheeses, datterini tomatoes, heirloom beans from Velçë and artichokes from Delvinë. The fish of the day is laid out on ice, and guests are invited to choose their own.

Start with the crudo: scampi, fresh oysters, tuna tartare on guacamole with crisp bread, or sea bass carpaccio with citrus and fennel. The Big Plateau brings most of these together for sharing. From the pastas, the multicoloured tonnarelli with monkfish ragù and ginger and the spaghetti alle vongole with bottarga and lemon are the chef’s signatures, and grilled octopus comes with baby potatoes and sweet peppers. There is also a sushi menu, and a house cocktail, Aldo’s Signature, that changes with the season.

Charter yachts on this coast usually start or finish at Marina Orikum, the full-service marina and port of entry at the southern end of the Bay of Vlorë. Gjurma is on the coast road between the marina and the town. Vlorë is about 30 minutes from Orikum by road, so the taxi ride along the bay is a little shorter.

Gjurma is open every day from 08:00 to 23:00. Book through the reservations page on the website, by email or by phone, and ask for a table facing the sea. The restaurant also hosts private dinners and celebrations with menus made to order.