Ristorante Belforte

Belforte has been a Vernazza classic for more than half a century, always run by local families. In the 1970s and 1980s it was a meeting place for actors, painters and singers, known for its moonlit dinners on the tower terraces.

Tables are spread over several terraces at different levels and a stone-walled dining room. One terrace holds a single table for two, the Tavolo dell’Amore, which has to be booked well ahead.

The kitchen cooks simple Ligurian food with fish brought in by local fishermen. Start with the anchovies of Monterosso, the mussels of Portovenere or octopus with potatoes and olives. The house speciality is rice with curry and scampi; trofie with pesto made fresh each day, tagliatelle with lobster and fish baked in salt are the other favourites. For dessert, strawberries tossed in the pan and served with gelato.

Vernazza lies inside the Cinque Terre marine protected area and has its largest mooring field, with permits needed for yachts and tenders. Guests come ashore by tender into the small harbour, and the restaurant is right beside the breakwater.

Belforte serves lunch and dinner and closes on Tuesdays. Book through its website, by email or by phone, and ask for a terrace table. Prices are at the higher end for the Cinque Terre, and the season runs from spring into the autumn.