Café· Portofino, Italian Riviera

Dolce&Gabbana Caffè Excelsior

On the Piazzetta at the edge of Portofino’s harbour, Caffè Excelsior has been the place to sit and watch the boats come in since 1924. Today it is run by Dolce&Gabbana, and it is the easiest coffee or aperitivo of a day in Portofino.

A century on the Piazzetta

The café opened in 1924, and in the years of the dolce vita it was at the heart of Portofino’s social life. Its tables face the harbour, so a coffee here comes with the view that made the village famous.

Dolce&Gabbana took it over in 2023, opening it as a café with a boutique corner, and it now trades as Dolce&Gabbana Caffè Excelsior.

The birthplace of the paciugo

The café is credited with inventing the paciugo, a Ligurian sundae. The story goes that Lina Repetto created it in 1924 by mixing cream gelato and whipped cream with a dash of grenadine and, asked what it was called, answered with the Genoese word for “a mess”. Today’s paciugo adds seasonal fruit and sour cherries, and you will find it at more than one café on the square.

What to order

Come in the morning for a cappuccino and a croissant, or in the early evening for a spritz or a cocktail as the light changes over the harbour. Gelato, tiramisù and light dishes are served through the day.

Getting there from the yacht

Most guests come ashore by tender, as Portofino has very few berths for larger yachts. The café is on the Piazzetta at the water’s edge, a short walk from the landing.

Good to know

It is a walk-in café with no bookings. Prices reflect the setting, and service can be slow on busy summer afternoons, so treat it as a place to linger rather than a quick stop.

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