Most people picture Havana when they think of Cuba, but a yacht charter shows the island at its quietest on the south coast. Between the bay of Cienfuegos and Cayo Largo del Sur lies a string of low, sandy cays fringed with coral, where a week can pass with only a handful of other boats in sight. This guide follows that coast stage by stage, with the distances a captain plans around and the details that make cruising Cuba different from the rest of the Caribbean. For an overview of the island, see our Cuba yacht charter guide.
In winter, cold fronts from North America regularly push strong northerly winds and big swells onto Cuba’s north coast. The south coast lies in their lee. Behind the reefs of the Canarreos Archipelago the water stays relatively calm, so the cays make a reliable cruising ground from December to April, the island’s dry season.
It is also where Cuba’s charter fleet is based. The few yachts that charter in Cuba sail from Cienfuegos, and larger crewed yachts arriving from elsewhere in the Caribbean usually start there too, because the city combines a sheltered bay, a marina and an easy drive from Havana’s international airport.
A loop from Cienfuegos to Cayo Largo and back covers roughly 200 nautical miles. Two long legs bracket the week; everything in between is a short hop.
On a sailing catamaran the two long legs each take most of a day; a fast motor yacht covers them in a morning, which leaves more time at anchor.
Settled by French families from Bordeaux and Louisiana in 1819, Cienfuegos is laid out on a neat grid of wide streets and neoclassical facades, and its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Give yourself an afternoon before you sail: Parque José Martí is framed by the cathedral and the gilded Tomás Terry Theatre, and the Paseo del Prado runs down towards the bay. The marina sits on the Punta Gorda peninsula, close to the Palacio de Valle, a flamboyant mansion with a rooftop terrace that is the town’s favourite place to watch the sun go down.
The bay of Cienfuegos opens to the sea through a narrow channel guarded by the Castillo de Jagua, a fortress completed in the 1740s against pirates and privateers. Beyond it, the first leg runs south-west to Cayo Guano del Este, a scrap of land at the eastern end of the Canarreos marked by a tall lighthouse. Anchor in the lee of the cay for the night; the surrounding reef is the first good snorkelling of the trip.
Cayo Largo has a marina and a small airport, and its south side is one long run of pale sand, some 25 kilometres in all. Playa Sirena, on the western tip, is the sheltered beach where most boats drop anchor, and Playa Paraíso nearby has shallow, glassy water that suits children and swimmers alike.
Spend a full day here. A short tender ride away, Cayo Iguana is home to a colony of iguanas that are quite used to visitors. On Cayo Largo itself, a small turtle centre collects eggs from nests at risk on the island’s beaches and releases the hatchlings once they emerge. Anglers can book a local guide for the flats around the cay, which have a following among fly fishers for bonefish and permit.
About 20 nautical miles beyond Cayo Largo, Cayo Rosario has a long, empty beach and coral close to shore. There is no town and no marina here, which is the point: dinner on deck, an anchorage to yourselves and, on a clear night, more stars than most guests have ever seen. The following day, work back east towards Cayo Largo, stopping at whichever reef looks best in the day’s light and wind.
The last leg is the longest, about 70 nautical miles back to the bay of Cienfuegos, so the crew will want an early start. Back in port, there is time for a final evening in town before you disembark the next morning.
Trinidad, about 80 kilometres east of Cienfuegos by road, deserves a day of its own. Founded in 1514 and made rich by sugar, its cobbled streets and pastel houses are listed by UNESCO together with the Valle de los Ingenios, the valley of old sugar estates behind the town. Stay into the evening, when live bands play on the steps beside the Plaza Mayor. If your flights use Havana, a night or two in Old Havana and along the Malecón is the natural way to begin or end the trip.
December to April is the time to go, the heart of Cuba’s dry season, with warm, sunny days and the sea at 25–27°C. The rainy season runs from May to October, and the Atlantic hurricane season from 1 June to 30 November, so most charters avoid the late summer and autumn.
The water inside the Canarreos is shallow in places, so catamarans and shallow-draft motor yachts reach the most anchorages, while larger yachts anchor further out and take guests in by tender. With few marinas between Cienfuegos and Cayo Largo, a yacht with a long range, its own watermaker and a good selection of water toys makes the most of the cays.
Tell us your dates, your group and what you enjoy most, and we will suggest the yachts and the route that suit you. Browse the crewed yachts we list for the Caribbean, read about what to do and eat in Cuba, or send us your plans.